‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.

Rachel Johnson MD
Rachel Johnson MD

Elias Vance is a Canadian journalist and political analyst with over a decade of experience covering national affairs and policy developments.